What is a Steering Stabilizer?
Contrary to popular belief, It’s not a magic cure for a wandering truck and it won’t fix your death-wobble. Well, it may mask Death Wobble and certainly helps ward it off by damping front-end forces leading to it but, I digress – read our other blog article if you’re after a fix for death wobble… A steering Stabilizer is simply a damper designed for your steering. A Steering Damper’s purpose is to increase steering predictability while minimizing volatility, road noise and driver fatigue. Simply put, a good steering stabilizer will stabilize the steering; shocker, right?
Stock Steering Stabilizers are designed for stock steering and stock tires. They work well in this application (for about 50,000 miles) and ONLY this application. Throw on a Carli kit and some 35” or 37” tires and you’ll be left wanting. When the tire size increases, the stabilizer should be upgraded as well. Larger, aftermarket tires are significantly heavier and harder to control than factory tires, even in on-road applications.
Types of Stabilizers:
There are two main types of aftermarket stabilizers, Emulsion and IFP (Internal Floating Piston). Both are “gas” charged and contain oil. Emulsion shocks are significantly cheaper than their IFP counterpart. These dampers mix the oil with the gas charge. Although the oil is pressurized by the gas, emulsion shocks do not function well in horizontally mounted applications; i.e. steering stabilizers. When mounted on its side, the oil rests on the bottom as it’s heavier than the gas which rises to the top. The result, a piston that’s only half-submerged in oil. When the piston starts working back and forth, it’s sloshing and foaming the oil offering almost no damping. These are the stabilizers you’ll normally find in cheaper, dual steering stabilizer kits that are more for aesthetics than performance.
These are abundant. A quick google search for “Emulsion Shock” or “Twin Tube Shock” will reveal their short life, tiny pistons and piss-poor ability to control suspension or steering. The only box they check… CHEAP.
Ensuring maximum utilization of the proprietary valving, ALL Carli Stabilizers are IFP Shocks. In short, the IFP shock boasts a second piston internal to the shock body know as the Dividing piston (noted by the Green O-Ring in the below picture). This secondary piston separates the nitrogen cavity (RED) from the oil (Blue). This allows the shock to be run in any orientation – i.e. on it’s side (stabilizer) – as the adjustable nitrogen charge pressurizes the oil cavity ensuring the piston is always submerged thus engaging the proprietary valving on the piston as efficiently as possible.
The nitrogen charge pressurizing the oil cavity also increased the heat-tolerance of the oil while eliminating cavitation (foaming).
Construction:
The main talking point is what stands this stabilizer head and shoulders above all other stabilizers – the body is made of solid 304 Stainless Steel. The raw-machined finish of this stabilizer attracts machinists and laymen alike; it’s truly a thing of beauty.
At the and of the stainless body you’ll find the aluminum Top-Cap. This cap, machined from a solid piece of billet then anodized black, houses a teflon-lined 1/2″ bearing and o-ring style schrader valve.
The Schrader valve allows the customer to bleed the pre-charged stabilizer. It comes pressurized to 200psi when shipped from our warehouse. Many who add this stabilizer are combating a radial tire pull to the right or left (which direction these stabilizers “push” depend on mounting points/hardware – more on this in “Applications” below). Customers desiring a high-end stabilizer that damps their steering without “pushing” can use the provided cap to lower the pressure of the stabilizer (to a neutral pressure spec: 40-70psi) so the nitrogen charge provides all the IFP functionality without directional compensation.
On the other end of the stabilizer, another billet rod-end houses another 1/2″ bearing. We offer a short and long version of this rod-end depending on application. Mounting provisions often require every-bit of the bearing misalignment of which these stabilizers are capable. To ensure bind-free performance, we machine and pre-install our 17-4 Stainless high-misalignment pins to the rod end, where necessary, to allow even more range of motion for the rod-end bearing.
You’ll likely notice the shaft is darker than our Fox or King offerings – this is due to the nitriding (heat-treat) process. Nitriding the shaft case-hardens (hardens the wear surface) to ensure unapparelled corrosion resistance while increasing the material’s fatigue life. What this means to the laymen, we’ve not seen a single pitted/rusted shaft since the release of our Stainless Stabilizers.
Internals:
Wiping contaminants from the shaft is a plastic gunk-guard. This is the first line of protection keeping road grime from entering the oil.
Pop off the dust cap and remove the snap ring and you’ll find what’s being protected – the main seal housing. There’s shaft-guide and seal within this seal housing secondary to the dust’s caps seal to further prevent debris incursion. The main seal housing functions exactly as its name implies. Secured in place by a snap-ring, this is the main guard against contaminants to the shock internals.
Above the main seal housing is the piston we’ve custom valved for larger, aftermarket tires. This robust valve-stack makes short work of damping road force from transmitting to the steering wheel even with 37″ tires increasing rotating mass by 50% over a stock tire. Abundant are complaints that aftermarket stabilizers will stiffen the steering wheel and prevent the truck from returning to center after a turn requiring manual correction. This is NOT the case with the Carli stabilizers; one could run high and low mount stabilizers with stock tires without experiencing any wheel stiffness. We worked to ensure our stabilizers provide a damped, yet active feel to avoid the numb, stiff feeling found in most aftermarket stabilizer kits.
Applications:
Ram:
2003-2012 Ram 2500/3500:
- High Mount Steering Stabilizer: Installs up and out of the way with the provided frame bracket and steering clamp. This is an auxiliary stabilizer and should be used to compliment the function of a factory or Carli Low-Mount Steering Damper. A higher nitrogen charge pushes to the left to counter-act a Right Hand Tire Pull.
- Low Mount Steering Stabilizer: Installs in place of the Factory stabilizer; all hardware is provided. As with the upper, a higher nitrogen charge pushes to the left to counter-act a Right Hand Tire Pull.
- Opposing Steering Stabilizer: Combines the Upper and Lower Steering stabilizer. Installed independently, these both push to the left. The Opposing setup also comes with a Differential guard and bracket to reverse the orientation of the low-mount stabilizer. Mounted inverse with this configuration, the lower stabilizer pushed right and the upper, left for a true, infinitely adjustable stabilization system for optimal damping with any tire.
2013-18 Ram 2500 & 2014-18 Ram 3500:
- Low Mount Steering Stabilizer: Installs in place of the Factory stabilizer; all hardware is provided. A higher nitrogen charge pushes to the Right to counter-act a Left Hand Tire Pull.
- High Mount Steering Stabilizer: Installs up and out of the way with the provided frame bracket and steering clamp. This is an auxiliary stabilizer and should be used to compliment the function of a factory or Carli Low-Mount Steering Damper. A higher nitrogen charge pushes to the left to counter-act a Right Hand Tire Pull. Combine with a Carli Low-Mount for a true, infinitely adjustable stabilization system for optimal damping with any tire.
2019-21 Ram 2500/3500:
- Low Mount Steering Stabilizer: Installs in place of the Factory stabilizer; all hardware is provided. A higher nitrogen charge pushes to the Right to counter-act a Left Hand Tire Pull.
- High Mount Steering Stabilizer: Bracket installs between the frame and the sway bar mount; other end clamps to the drag link. A higher nitrogen charge pushes to the Left to counter-act a Right Hand Tire Pull. Better yet, combines with the low-mount steering stabilizer to provide dual, opposing stabilization infinitely adjustable to correct whatever tire pull is encountered!
Super Duty:
2005-07 Super Duty:
- Low Mount Steering Stabilizer: Carli Differential Guard and tie-rod clamp provide mounting provision for this stabilizer. A higher nitrogen charge pushes to the Right to counter-act a Left Hand Tire Pull.
2008-16 Super Duty: Adds ability to run the High-Mount.
- Low Mount Steering Stabilizer: Carli Differential Guard and tie-rod clamp provide mounting provision for this stabilizer. A higher nitrogen charge pushes to the Right to counter-act a Left Hand Tire Pull.
- High Mount Steering Stabilizer: Installs up and out of the way with the provided frame hardware and Drag-Link Bracket. A higher nitrogen charge pushes to the left to counter-act a Right Hand Tire Pull. Combine with a Carli Low-Mount for a true, infinitely adjustable stabilization system for optimal damping with any tire.
2017-21 Super Duty: Same as 2008-16 but the high mount runs a short rod-end at the drag link bracket.
- Low Mount Steering Stabilizer: Carli Differential Guard and tie-rod clamp provide mounting provision for this stabilizer. A higher nitrogen charge pushes to the Right to counter-act a Left Hand Tire Pull.
- High Mount Steering Stabilizer: Installs up and out of the way with the provided frame hardware and Drag-Link Bracket. A higher nitrogen charge pushes to the left to counter-act a Right Hand Tire Pull. Combine with a Carli Low-Mount for a true, infinitely adjustable stabilization system for optimal damping with any tire.
Do you have one for a Chevy 2500 hd
We do not, Chris – sorry!
2019 f250 6.7
The lift I have a 6” lift that flips the bar the high mount stabilizer attaches to. Will your high mount stabilizer work on my application?
We’ve not tested in a flipped application to be able to advise, unfortunately.
I have a 2018 f250 6.7 4×4 all completely stock. When driving the steering wheel has a slight shake to it when you let go of the steering wheel. Would your upper and lower steering stabilizer fix that completely?
That sounds like a tire issue – I doubt a stabilizer will help this.
Stupid question, but when you run a dual stabilizer setup, are you suppose to remove the stock steering stabilizer? Or can you run them with no issues?
None of our Dual Stabilizers allow you to maintain your factory stabilizer.
I have 2022 Ram 3500 diesel 4X4 with the air leveling system, what can I do to soften the ride, I am not interested in a lift, I could live with 2.5″ lift./
Hi Claude – you can view the system we offer for your truck HERE.
Your truck is a complicated animal and we don’t offer any simple leveling solutions. Minimum lift is 3.25″ front and 2″ rear.
I have a 2021 F250 Tremor with the 3.5″ Pintop system and 37″ Tires. Works great! Only problem, I hear a loud squeaking/rubbing sound when making right turns (I can hear it in the cab when driving in parking lots, etc.). Only happens when turning right, not left. Truck steers great and drives straight. No tire rubbing. I laid under the truck and had someone turn right a few times. Difficult to pinpoint but seems to be coming from the high mount steering stabilizer. Have you had any experience with this?
Hey Brandon – Give us a shout at the shop; there are a couple things we can run over! 888-992-2754. First thing I’d do is spray the shaft with WD40 and see if you can isolate the noise.
I put the Carli pin-top on my 2020 F350 4X4 Powerstroke! I want to get my front end up another inch or so , can
I buy the next step coil spring and be alright? That would obviously be North of the 1 inch or so desired, but my truck
Still sets about a 1/2” lower in the front and I did the king shocks all the bell’s and whistles pin-top ! BTW the truck’s ride
Is awesome amazing at how well it takes the bumps pot holes railroad tracks…. I”m running 39-13.50 x 17 BFG’s KM3’s
W/ Method 17 x 9.5 NV 305 wheels..
Hey KJ – there’s no option to add 1″ of front lift without messing up geometry and performance. If anything, I would recommend looking at options to take 1″ out of the rear.
I have a 2017 F250 that I would like to equip with your 2.5 inch leveling kit and rear matching shocks. My question is, do I need the upper and lower steering stabilizers and adjustable trac bar, or will it still drive properly without them? Thanks
Hi Shar – The truck will drive fine with our leveling kit and your factory stabilizer until you increase the tire size. Once you go to a 35″, you’ll want more stabilization. 37s, same. We recommend adding the lower to your factory upper when running 35s and both our stabilizers when you get to 37s.
Hi guys. I have a 2014 dully 4×4 RAM 3500 With steering shocks kit installed in front axle (both sides) had to do alignment many time and still pulling to passenger side. ( they didn’t know how to fix it…I replaced tie rods hub assembly, calipers brakes, rotors all brand new american tires, etc. What’s the better way to fix it or recommendations. Thanks
What tires are you running? What direction are your caster-cams pointing (on both sides)? Have you removed the stabilizers from the truck and driven it to see if that alleviates the issue?
I have a 2012 dodge ram 1500 4×4 vibration in steering wheel at 65 to 70 will this help
We don’t offer any stabilizers for the 1500s, unfortunately.
2016 3500 ram dually tire wear on the outside would a steering stabilizer help due to the weight of the Cummins motor
Have had my 2016 ram 3500 dually 2WD aligned 2 times and still pulls to the right. Question is, will this correct my issue? jr marquez
Hi Ismael, Sorry, only for 4×4 trucks. We don’t have any experience with the 2wd.
I just purchased a 2020 Ford F-250 4×4
Tremor. 7.3 gas . Do you make a leveling kit at this time .
We don’t have a gas-specific kit but have had several customers install our diesel kits with success. We recommend an extra inch of lift in the rear to compensate for the additional lift the Diesel springs provide the gas motor. A popular choice is the Commuter 2.0 System with rear add-a-packs. This will provide a 3-3.5″ front lift.
We have prototype gas coil springs that have been tested on the 11-16 6.2L Gas truck that sat at exactly 2.5″ of lift – next, we’re going to put them on the 2020+ 7.3L to confirm fitment on that truck before green-lighting the springs. This is all currently in process and we’ll likely see it come to fruition middle to late 2020.
Hi
I have an 2002 f250 super duty 7.3 diesel engine and need a steering damper shock. Do you provide one.
We do not, for that application. Sorry!
Hello,
I have a 2019 Ram 3500 4×4 dually. I would just like to have a good 2.5 leveling kit in the front with 35s and 20in wheels. I would like to have the same tires and wheel in the rear . Not sure what to do in the rear I have leaf springs with no air assist . Any suggestion ?
Thank You
B Mac ,
Hello,
Give us a call at the shop, we’d be happy to run you through all options available! 888-992-2754
F250 SD 2010 6.4L #91,k mi. 4”lift 35×12.5×20” Toyo tires M/T. My issue 1.5”to 1.75” play in steering wheel several mechanical inspections State all components are in good shape. That being said one of my mechanics European trained only solution REPLACE gear box with OEM. By the way there is no death wobble, & Not pulling R or L. I’ve been considering Front end Stabilizer. Bottom line not comfortable with play in the steering wheel..Please help looking forward for your professional opinion’s! Thank you in advance Bob Cione
Hi Bob,
The stabilizer will provide more control over your steering but the play in the wheel is determined by the condition of your steering gear and linkage. A stabilizer can not remove slop from a worn joint or box. Most common culprit on these trucks are a worn steering gear and drag link.
Thank you for your response replacement gearbox OEM? Same with the linkage OEM EQ?
We use OEM Gearboxes and Linkage, yes!
I have a 91 Ford Bronco do you sell part to fit my truck.
Sorry but we do not.
I’m wondering why you can’t put a high stabilizer on a 03 F-250? My 06 F-350 comes from the diff. to the tie rod and the 03 comes from the bottom of the spring to the tie rod, both are attached to the axle and then to the tie rod. Why can’t you just do the same on both models? I’m wanting a high one for my 03 and I’m thinking of just building my own?
Tell me what ya think?
Thanks Ben
We only make a High Mount for the 08+ Super Duties. The 05-07 models have the factory steering stabilizer in the same place (from the frame to the drag-link) but the mount on the frame is a stem-top vs an eyelet on the 08+. We do not make a low mount (differential to tie-rod) for any Super Duty at this time – we have something in the works but there’s nothing currently available and won’t likely be available for the 99-04 leaf spring trucks.